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RetroBright Mouse Restoration - Sticker Bubbles

After a day of submerging my mouse in the liquid version of RetroBright (3% peroxide solution), I found that the sticker on the bottom of the mouse had what looked to be bubbles in it (i.e., it was no longer smooth to the touch). You can sort of see this in the photo in the foggy areas of the sticker.

But I am pleased to report that after drying out through the night, the bubbling was gone the next morning.

The sticker was very slightly discolored from the RetroBright treatment, but not very bad. And I say this being someone who gets upset over every little thing. This was very acceptable to me.

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Comment by John Piontkowski on November 15, 2009 at 1:03pm
I'm having the same issue cleaning several cases. The serial labels are coming loose (none have fallen off completly yet). I'm not sure how I could prevent this.
Comment by James Wages on November 15, 2009 at 3:31pm
I only had this happen on the mouse-bottom sticker because I used the liquid version of RetroBright, and I left the mouse in the solution a full day without removing it. That caused the top portion of the sticker to "bubble" as you see in the photo. But I did not have this problem at all when I used the "gel" version of RetroBright (where I used corn starch to thicken it and then applied it by brush to the plastics). The other benefit of the gel version is that you can selectively apply it. So of course, when I used the gel form on the back housing of my SE/30, I did not of course brush it completely over the stickers on the back. It did get on the edges of the sticker on the back case, but there was no discoloration of the sticker nor bubbling. Even so, the stickers on the back of the case are more robust that the stickers on the bottom of the mouse. Please also keep in mind that I used only 3% off-the-shelf H202 in my liquid and gel forms of RetroBright. I can imagine that anything stronger would have messed up my mouse sticker completely. And although the 3% solution I used caused the bubbling you see in the photo, the sticker flattened out to normal again 24 hours later when it thoroughly dried. It was then merely discolored slightly (but not seriously so).

Just be sure you always remove the apple logos. Most of them are metal and H202 will react with metal and bubble off the paint! I never had that problem myself only because I saw online that others did, which caused me to take time to remove those logos prior to RetroBright deyellowing.
Comment by LaurentB on November 16, 2009 at 8:53pm
I don't use the liquid version, and no issue at all with stickers with the gel formula.
So far, about 20 computers and a dozen keyboards and mouses were treated with not one single flaw.
I really love that stuff. My retro Macs look brand new.
Like James, I use off the self H202, and sometimes items need two sessions.
Comment by Lars (WhyOSX) on November 16, 2009 at 9:05pm
How about using a 3% solution from the next pharmacy ?
Is there a way to modify it, with gelatine or something ?
Comment by James Wages on November 16, 2009 at 9:31pm
"next pharmacy"...?
And what do you mean, "modify it"?
Comment by Lars (WhyOSX) on November 16, 2009 at 9:47pm
Usually a 3% solution of H2O2 is like water, and if you don't want the whole cases in a bath, applying it a few hours, it might be mixed with such a substance as gelatine or even toothpaste.
Of course H2O2 is available in supermarkets as well, for to ruin people's hair.
Comment by James Wages on November 16, 2009 at 10:02pm
Lars I still don't understand 100% what you mean. But I strongly suggest that you (and anyone else wanting to try this) read through this 68kMLA thread on the subject (I am known as JDW there):
Comment by Lars (WhyOSX) on November 17, 2009 at 1:21am
Hmm, how shall I put it then...
When the yellowed thing is a little bigger than a mouse, let's say a 5200's case,
you'll need enormous amounts of a H₂O₂ solution to bathe it in.
Something to apply with brushes seems to be a better idea to me.
I've never tried it either way - your results say it all; they're impressive.
Comment by James Wages on November 17, 2009 at 1:32am
Lars, if you follow the steps I set forth in that 68kMLA thread, you won't go wrong. And you don't need a lot of H202 either. That holds true whether you use the gel or liquid forms.
Comment by Lars (WhyOSX) on November 17, 2009 at 2:01am
There's at least a 12" RGB with its LC worth trying it - thank you.


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